If you're going to Indo then the chances are you will have to face a few big waves. The chances are also good that you might face the odd wipeout (or two). If you're like me and most people on the planet - this is an experience that would not be on your favourites list of things to do before you die. So what's the best way (ways) to survive a good flogging at the hands of a big Indo wave? Well you could always hide in your hotel room when there is any sign of a descent swell; you could pretend you have a case of the Bali Belly; or you could wax up, pull yourself together and paddle out.
Seriously though, rather than sit on the beach pooping yourself, there are some things that are helpful to know and these can be learnt from guys that ride big waves. One of the first things to know is your limit. If you're not comfortable riding giant waves and know that you would probably die - then don't paddle out - no matter how much your mates bag you out. But you don't want to be limited to riding 2 footers at Kuta beach either. Ok then, let's look at a few things that a surfer can put in his tool box for those bigger days.
Bailing Out
Some people have different preferences when it comes to bailing out. Up to a certain wave size I like to dive off my board and swim for the bottom to get under the initial impact of the breaking lip. This is a great strategy but when the waves start getting to a serious size this method can be flawed. You expel a lot of energy getting deep enough to escape the impact zone and your oxygen supply depletes quickly. Many big wave surfers use what's called the 'Tin Soldier.' You simply push your board aside and position yourself feet first like a tin soldier. Next, take in as much oxygen as you can then push your self under to minimise the initial impact and then just go with the wave. This method conserves your energy and by doing so your oxygen will last longer. The surfer needs to focus on their breathing and let the wave have its way.
Duck Diving
Up to a certain size the duck dive is the choice of many. It's best to work out your own method but one way to duck dive in bigger surf is to have one arm wrapped around the bottom of the board and the other on the rail to stop the board from smashing back into your face. Hang on as tight as you can and the hope is that the board will surface quickly and so will you.
It is important in any wipeout of serious consequence to stay calm. Most experienced surfers will tell you to act like a rag doll and let the wave have its way. When the wave is finished with you then start stroking for the surface. You simply won't be able to overcome the turbulence so don't try. Also, open your eyes after the initial thrashing to orientate yourself. I remember being so disorientated that I actually swam to the bottom instead of the surface.
Wipeouts over shallow reefs
Wear a wetsuit of some kind as you will get bounced off the reef eventually. Wear booties! If you don't your feet will get shredded for sure. If you're like me and don't like to wear booties because you are more comfortable with the feel of skin on board then wear one on your front foot at least to push off the bottom with. I normally wear both to walk over reefs then when I have paddled out the back I simple take one bootie off and slip it into the back of my wettie or down the back of my boardies. This can also protect me if get bounced on the reef butt first.
Seriously though, rather than sit on the beach pooping yourself, there are some things that are helpful to know and these can be learnt from guys that ride big waves. One of the first things to know is your limit. If you're not comfortable riding giant waves and know that you would probably die - then don't paddle out - no matter how much your mates bag you out. But you don't want to be limited to riding 2 footers at Kuta beach either. Ok then, let's look at a few things that a surfer can put in his tool box for those bigger days.
Bailing Out
Some people have different preferences when it comes to bailing out. Up to a certain wave size I like to dive off my board and swim for the bottom to get under the initial impact of the breaking lip. This is a great strategy but when the waves start getting to a serious size this method can be flawed. You expel a lot of energy getting deep enough to escape the impact zone and your oxygen supply depletes quickly. Many big wave surfers use what's called the 'Tin Soldier.' You simply push your board aside and position yourself feet first like a tin soldier. Next, take in as much oxygen as you can then push your self under to minimise the initial impact and then just go with the wave. This method conserves your energy and by doing so your oxygen will last longer. The surfer needs to focus on their breathing and let the wave have its way.
Duck Diving
Up to a certain size the duck dive is the choice of many. It's best to work out your own method but one way to duck dive in bigger surf is to have one arm wrapped around the bottom of the board and the other on the rail to stop the board from smashing back into your face. Hang on as tight as you can and the hope is that the board will surface quickly and so will you.
It is important in any wipeout of serious consequence to stay calm. Most experienced surfers will tell you to act like a rag doll and let the wave have its way. When the wave is finished with you then start stroking for the surface. You simply won't be able to overcome the turbulence so don't try. Also, open your eyes after the initial thrashing to orientate yourself. I remember being so disorientated that I actually swam to the bottom instead of the surface.
Wipeouts over shallow reefs
Wear a wetsuit of some kind as you will get bounced off the reef eventually. Wear booties! If you don't your feet will get shredded for sure. If you're like me and don't like to wear booties because you are more comfortable with the feel of skin on board then wear one on your front foot at least to push off the bottom with. I normally wear both to walk over reefs then when I have paddled out the back I simple take one bootie off and slip it into the back of my wettie or down the back of my boardies. This can also protect me if get bounced on the reef butt first.