In Indonesia there are lots of big waves and therefore lots of potential for big wipeouts. This means lots of times you will need to hold your breath for long periods of time. Apparently though, most waves will hold you down no more than 12 seconds. My first reaction after reading this was, "Yer right." But after thinking about it and checking a few videos it seems to be true - most waves up to about 10 feet will hold you down no more than 12 seconds with the occasional wave keeping you there for 15.
Now of course there are exceptions to the rule and it's these exceptions that keep normal everyday surfers like me very nervous on bigger days. When you are in the grip of one of these exceptional wipeouts the 12 second rule will give you little comfort. Apparently short period swells can also cause havoc to this rule. You will be just popping up from a flogging only to get smashed by the second wave of the set. The problem of course is that you are unable to get a full breath before going under again.
Anyway, next time you get smashed and have the state of mind, try counting off twelve seconds.
Now of course there are exceptions to the rule and it's these exceptions that keep normal everyday surfers like me very nervous on bigger days. When you are in the grip of one of these exceptional wipeouts the 12 second rule will give you little comfort. Apparently short period swells can also cause havoc to this rule. You will be just popping up from a flogging only to get smashed by the second wave of the set. The problem of course is that you are unable to get a full breath before going under again.
Anyway, next time you get smashed and have the state of mind, try counting off twelve seconds.